About Districts
Beaches of San Francisco
First let us clarify the unfortunate "deal" with the few San Francisco beaches.
Unless it is a gigantically hot day you probably shouldn't even think about
a "bathing suit and towel" beach experience. Think instead of a walk on the
beach or of blustery, clothed, lounging.
Baker Beach is right next to the Golden Gate Bridge and there is a view. It
is accessible from the Presidio, San Francisco's oldest Army base/park, and
currently part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. The Presidio's future
is a hotly debated topic and presently an uncertain one. The end of the beach,
closest to the bridge, is the nudist section (nude men and women, women and
men in bathing suits, women and men covered from head to toe in sweats, parkas
and dark sunglasses- all are represented.) The rest is more conventional beach
going, a beautiful spot, with the Presidio reaching its hands up behind you.
Baker faces out onto the Marin headlands. You might combine it with a visit
to the Golden Gate Bridge, they are in close proximity and make for a nice outdoorsy
day. For some reason I think of Baker as the more upscale beach: cleaner, nicer,
and not quite as many dogs.
Ocean Beach is substantially larger than Baker. On one end is the Cliff House
Restaurant, with it's awe-inspiring, breath-taking views. The food is so-so.
I had appetizers and cocktails there once with family from out of town. The
cheese plate consisted of fruit, Triscuits, and chunks of cheddar cheese. My
mother and stepfather had a good down home breakfast buffet for a graduation
event there and were completely satisfied. The building, location, and view
from the Cliff House are a truly unique combination, and a uncommon tourist
sight. Their gift shop has 21 different souvenirs depicting the Golden Gate
Bridge.
At the South end of Ocean Beach is Fort Funston, which, like the Presidio,
is an old army base. Hiking, hang-gliding, beach walking, and picnicking are
all frequently enjoyed here. It is quite beautiful, unique in its landscape
and foliage, and as much a local hangout as a sight for tourists. The main descent
from Fort Funston to the beach is a funky little set up of log stairs embedded
in the sand. It's not rickety, I just wouldn't go down them if you are.
Whenever I leave Fort Funston, the Headlands, or Baker Beach, I praise the beauty
of such a place. "I'm so glad we came".
The Castro
The Castro is largely a gay male community. It is thriving and bustling night
and day. The commercial area centers around Castro and Eighteenth Streets, and
ebbs outward a couple of blocks in every direction. It is elbow to bump to halt
with people. There are numerous restaurants, cafes, and fashionable clothing
stores. While researching the Castro, I happened upon the name of Trevor
Hailey. How lucky I was.
Trevor gives a walking tour of the district. A historical and human perspective
of the life, the history, the everything of the Castro. At first I was
going to say something about the Castro as a piece of the puzzle, but it is
so much more than a piece, it is more like an umbrella over the city. Truly
a journey, the tour is a walking, talking discovery about a city's dynamics
and subcultures, its fears and prejudices, differences and changes. My ears
were open and my eyes wide throughout the tour. We met at the corner of Castro
and Market. My friend Heather, from Los Angeles, joined me for the experience.
Our co-walkers: Frank from England, an elderly, recently widowed gentleman,
Nia and Briget, a lesbian couple visiting from Connecticut, another woman from
England (whose name I can't recall), and Trevor, who introduces, informs, and
leads us, while raising her voice above traffic and loud semi trucks. She's
from Mississippi. We all pin a rainbow to our clothing so that we may be "returned
to Trevor" should we stray from the herd. She seats us in her classroom outside
of a local school and starts at the beginning, covering the settlement of the
city, the Gold Rush, the geography of Castro Valley.
We had brunch together, which is included in the price ($30.00 per person).
Here we introduce and gab and chatter; we could easily have lingered all day
with such wonderful conversation and food. But tour we must. First stop: the
Castro Theater. A wonderful theater, which hosts a great variety of films: the
Gay and Lesbian Film Festival, noire classics, B movies, cult and underground
films, etc. A year ago, I saw The Sound of Music there, an old favorite
at a classic venue. The splendor of the Castro Theater includes faux opera boxes,
pilaster columns, a marble-floored foyer, a grand multi-tiered organ that is
lowered into an orchestra pit when it's not in use, and an intermingling of
different eras and arts.
Noah's Bagels and the Body Shop, are a couple of the first chains to make it
into the neighborhood, and recently, a Taqueria has emerged. Aside from these
few exceptions, independently owned boutiques and notably nice shops dominate
the scene. If you're in the vicinity, visit Cliff's Variety, "Everything you
need to fix up an old Victorian or throw a party," according to Trevor.
Words can describe the day we spent together, but not easily. It was
an eye-opening, mind- heightening day I'll forever remember. Although it's not
cheap, this tour could possibly be one of the most rewarding, educational, and
interesting, interactive things to do in San Francisco, for Trevor facilitates
the experience with genius flair.
There is a store on Castro between 18th and 19th that has a machine which releases
bubbles out into the street; it's a cool and quirky invention that never fails
to evoke a smile from me. For more local color on the Castro District, look
into the short colorful career of former City Supervisor Harvey Milk, and The
Names Project Quilt.
There are not too many hotels located near the Castro. However, to capture
the same feel as you would experience in the Castro, you want to check out the
Phoenix Hotel, downtown or the
Del Sol in the Marina. Both are
refurbished motor inns that have been updated and are popular among rock bands
and artists.
Chinatown
I remember that week I lost my voice. We started our jaunt at Nordstom's in
the S.F.Center, walked down Market to Grant Street and through the ornate Chinatown
Gates on Grant and Bush Streets. Chinatown is long and narrow. For the most
part, it remains sandwiched between Kearny and Stockton Streets.
Grant Street tends to be more touristy and trinkety, whereas Stockton Street
tends more towards restaurants and shops frequented by locals. Jewelry stores,
trinket shops, tea shops, Chinese delicacies and herbs, an unvaried array of
flip-flops, umbrellas, toys, pickled green mangoes, dried abalone, and lots
of hanging fish, beef, and poultry are always customarily in season in Chinatown.
On that particular outing to Chinatown, we ate at the House of Nan King, a
celebrated S.F. restaurant, known for excellent Chinese cuisine and miserable
service (i.e. plates tossed onto the table, servers walking away mid-order...).
My experience was not entirely a rude one, however, no-frills is the best way
to put it, but, nonetheless, it is still a unique experience.
My companion and I thought that a late afternoon drink in Chinatown might be
nice. Every bar we stepped into was filled with thick warm air emanating from
the steamy kitchen counters, each stool topped with an elderly Chinese gentleman.
Chinatown is a town all it's own. It remains unfamiliar and wonderful as I
meander through. Bordered roughly by North Beach, and the Financial District,
Chinatown is crowded and vibrantly alive with sights, sounds, and smells. Chinatown
is a new world every time I visit.
Some hotel options on the fringes of Chinatown include the recently renovated
Allison Hotel, about a block and
a half from the Grant Street entrance. Or if you prefer a larger hotel, The
Grand Hyatt is within a block as well.
Civic Center
Civic Center has a distinct "big city" feeling, which is unusual in San Francisco.
The contradictions that are present in Civic Center make it an interesting and
lively place. On the one hand, many cultural institutions thrive in this area.
The beautiful assortment of city, state and federal buildings, is an architectural
highlight. On the other hand, many homeless people make their beds in the United
Nations Plaza and the landscaped park in front of City Hall. A taxi is recommended
if you are traveling in the Civic Center area at night.
I visited the United Nations Plaza on a Wednesday morning, and was delighted
to find an active, bustling Farmer's Market in progress. At the Farmer's Market,
which also happens on Saturdays, you can buy fresh anything including nuts,
produce, and big bunches of flowers. There were a couple of street musicians
performing, lending romantic tones to the event. I walked down Market Street,
which is lined on both sides by trees, and was struck by the sight of a fancy,
elegant restaurant located just 2 doors down from an Adult video store. This
part of Market Street has a variety of camera stores and luggage shops, dotted
with fast food chains and office buildings. It is not unusual to be approached
for spare change when walking anywhere in San Francisco, but it happens more
in the Civic Center area.
If you are looking for musical entertainment, you might be interested in seeing
a performance at the War Memorial Opera House, the Louise Davies Symphony Hall
or the Bill Graham Civic Auditorium. Also of cultural interest, is the new Main
Public Library. This beautiful, contemporary building is a wonderful place
to browse for books or rest your legs in a comfortable chair and read.
San Francisco has a gorgeous City Hall, which recently underwent a multi-million
dollar renovation. It was built in 1881, and modeled after the Capital building
in Washington. The dome rises 308 feet on the exterior and was recently painted
gold and black, which looks spectacular! Once inside, you can marvel at the
marble, oak, and limestone rotunda, which rises 112 feet above the slick, marble
floors. City Hall is a particular treat for "beaux art" architecture enthusiasts.
The Best Western Carriage Inn
is a small elegant property, and is a great value near the Civic Center. Two
nearby motor inns are the Best Western
Flamingo and the Best Western
Americania. Two blocks north of Civic Center, there is a popular 50's style
motel called the Phoenix. A more
traditional choice in this area of town is the Britton.
Financial District
San Francisco's financial district is difficult to box in, but generally, Market,
Montgomery, and Pacific Streets create three sides of the obtuse box with the
bay making up the fourth. The Financial district also spreads south of Market
up to about Brannan. Big sky-scrapers here, there, and everywhere as well as
a healthy smattering of delis, cafes, restaurants, coffee shops and fine, fancy
dining. And, of course, it is financial: the West Coast Stock Exchange, Bank
of America headquarters, Chevron, and other national giants, are in the Financial
District.
Embarcadero buildings 1-4 are basically office buildings containing really
nice shopping centers. Banana Republic, the Gap, a movie theater, Chevy's Mexican
Restaurant, specialty shops, and upscale restaurants can all be found here.
Shopping and dining made easy for the many employees of the area and corporate
visitor's alike.
Townhouse apartment complexes make some of the financial district oddly residential.
I've always thought it a strange place to live, but I'm sure it's very convenient
for its residents. For this reason one can find all neighborhood necessities.
Because the Financial District borders Union Square the hotels in this area
suit the business and pleasure traveler. Several excellent hotels in this area
are the Holiday Inn Financial District,
the Griffon or the Harbor
Court.
Fisherman's Wharf
Now we're really talking SF's tourist Mecca. People in search of the Wharf
seals have the right idea, it is absolutely my favorite thing to do here. The
sea lions are earnest entertainment, free, but seasonal. I have a hard time
with hoards of people and the hustle-bustle, however, many people enjoy the
activity at the wharf and the numerous happenings and diversions for children.
Personally, I was not looking forward to a refresher course down at the Wharf,
but much to my surprise, I relished every unique moment of my latest outing.
The following can all be found in the Fisherman's Wharf area:
Pier 41, The Boudin Bakery Pavilion, Pier 45, The Pampanito Submarine
The Red & White Fleet is harbored at Pier 41. This is at the center of
the wharf strip. Lots of action and the highest population of pigeons, sea gulls
and rickshaws in the city. Taste the fresh crab for an indelible taste treat.
One long strip of vendors sells crab, mussels, and lobster fast-food style.
These tasty little treats are, however, by no means cheap. $6.00 will get you
a crab/mayonnaise sandwich; $4.00 more to add a small container of marinated
mussels. The prices charged by all vendors are more or less the same, so don't
waste too much time in search of the best deal. My friend Maria and I found
refuge at Boudin, the round building in the middle of everything. We shared
a Caesar salad and clam chowder in a bread bowl for about $7.00, and were quite
satisfied. In regards to the Pampanito(a World War II submarine): a cursory
browse will satisfy your curiosity.
Pier 39
Pier 39, the approximate Southern border of the wharf area, is a festival of
tacky shops and events. You can find bumper cars, "the Centipede" ride, a freshwater
pearl pond, T-shirt and trinket shops, a Kareoke booth that enables you to take
home a private recording of yourself singing a top 200 hit by a one-hit wonder,
and other such novelties. This area has a more organized feel than most of the
Wharf, and the pier itself is nice. Pier 39 also offers multiple food options.
The one that most interested me was a concession offering a bounty of hearty
fruits, from which to select and consume.
S.F. Maritime Museum, Municipal and Hyde Street Pier, Aquatic Park
We descended on the Maritime Museum with our backs to Fort Mason and the Marina.
When I initially considered the Maritime Museum, I simultaneously drawled out
a long oval boring. But, the actual ships make it cool. And it's FREE. The Municipal
Pier is fun to walk out on, there's a fair share of fish bait and fishermen.
Ships belonging to the museum are docked on the Hyde Street Pier. We saw one
of the ships, "Alma," a medieval-looking vessel, actually setting sail. Aquatic
Park, where all the stairs are, can be a little sketchy. I wouldn't hang out
there by myself at night. During the day, though, I think it's fine.
The Cannery, Ghiradelli Square
The Cannery and Ghirardelli Square,
on the West End of the Wharf, are mildly less crowded. Ghirardelli Square consists
of assorted shops, restaurants, and the famous Ghirardelli Chocolate Shop. It's
not quite as impressive as I had remembered, but if you want to eat chocolate
in different shapes, sizes, and flavors, this is the place. The Cannery is much
of the same, minus the chocolate. Both of these sites are great places, weather
permitting, to loiter or lollygag, which is necessary now and again. A whole
day at Fisherman's Wharf takes a lot of energy, as there is a lot to see.
This area offers many large hotels. The
Hilton Fisherman's Wharf, the Radisson
Hotel and the Sheraton are
three options located in the heart of the Wharf. All are perfectly located as
a home base for walking tours of this tourist site.
Haight Street
Haight Street is a bubbly kind of neighborhood, overflowing with personality
and individuality. In the sixties, the corner of Haight and Ashbury Street was
the magnetic center of attraction for hippies and revolutionists. A generation
ago, people migrated to "the Haight" and gave rise to a counter-culture movement.
Despite its radical history, Haight Street has become pretty commercial and
capitalistic. Ironically, the Gap and Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream now inhabit
the retail spaces on the corner that was once so "hip".
Vestiges of the hippie era still exist including some people who've been here
since the 60's (no, I'm not kidding). In fact, there are many restless people
hanging out in the Haight, ranging from hippies to punk rockers. You can find
your tie-died T-shirts, incense and peace signs on every block. The Haight-Ashbury
Free Medical Clinic, which opened in 1967, still provides low-cost health care
to those in need. In addition to remnants of it's revolutionary history, the
Haight now embodies music stores, clothing stores (new and used), shoe stores,
bars, coffee shops and a vast array of inexpensive restaurants.
The Stanyan Park Hotel is a small
elegant hotel decorated in a Victorian style and is located just two blocks
away from Haight St.
The Marina
The Marina consists of a few excellent neighborhood shopping areas and sights.
Lombard, Union, and Chestnut Streets are major shop-eat-browse neighborhoods.
Lombard Street is the only real motel strip in San Francisco. Mel's Diner is
on Lombard Street. It is an American, Fifties-style diner, which has been resurrected
and refurbished. They have great burgers and shakes, the atmosphere is fun and
casual, and there are mini jukeboxes at all of the booths. If you're going for
restaurant fun you should wait the extra time to get a booth; it adds to the
authenticity. Lombard also continues beyond the motels up to Hyde Street. Here
you can drive or walk down "the crooked street".
The Cable Car runs on Hyde Street; if you go North towards the water you will
end up at Fisherman's Wharf.
Union Street is comprised of stylish boutiques, up-scale shopping, eating,
and browsing. Beautiful homes sit above Union in one of San Francisco's wealthiest
neighborhoods, Pacific Heights. Noah's Bagels is an inexpensive breakfast or
lunch, though the bagels are a little bready for my taste. Beetlenut is an interesting
restaurant, offering Japanese/California cuisine for lunch and dinner. Great
clothing and shoe stores line the 5 or 6 blocks of Union Street that comprises
the commercial area.
Two Motel in the Marina are the Comfort
Inn by the Bay and the Del Sol.
Midtown
If you talk to a native San Franciscan, he or she will tell you there is no
Midtown. This name was invented by San Francisco Reservations to describe a
large area we consider to be in the middle of the city. Loosely speaking, it
is the area between (but not including) Civic Center and the Marina. Midtown
includes many neighborhoods including Polk Street, Japan Town and the Fillmore.
Route 101, which is also Van Ness Avenue, is the main thoroughfare that runs
through Midtown. On Van Ness Ave. you will find a few movie theatres, the American
Rag Clothing Co., the famous Hard Rock Cafe, Ruth's Chris Steak House and several
big, chain stores like Circuit City. It is centrally located, but not very exciting.
Polk Street/ Polk Gulch
As a kid in the 1980s, never having visited the Castro, I believed Polk Street
to be the center of the gay community. It was, in a sense, but isn't anymore,
though vestiges of an eccentric gay community remain. For the most part, the
area is a down-to-earth shopping scene, neither too fancy nor too plain. There
are numerous food and grocery stores dotting the main drag, as well as a Walgreen's,
a couple of used clothing stores, restaurants, and cafes. I like it. It is a
nice browsing street, especially the cluster close to the base of Russian Hill.
Between Clay and Broadway is more upscale, with fancy health food grocery stores
here and there. On the other end of Polk Street, heading down to the Civic Center,
the area gives a flick of the tail and turns a little towards cautionary, i.e.
male prostitution and other unfortunate stuff.
Japan Town
The Japan Center houses an elegant outdoor temple and the Kintetsu Mall. At
the mall, you can shop for Japanese paper, silks, hardware, books, music, car
accessories, furniture, and jewelry. If you like soup, tempura or sushi you'll
be in heaven in Japan town. Personally, I drool just looking at the plastic
replicas of food in the windows of the many restaurants. Once you've filled
up with the fantastic foods, you can choose to entertain yourself by seeing
a movie at the massive Kabuki Theatre.
For two weekends in the spring the streets close for the Cherry Blossom Festival
when artists and merchants set up booths along a parade route to celebrate the
blooming of the Cherry Trees.
A great small elegant hotel within walking distance try the Hotel
Majestic located at Sutter and Gough streets.
The Fillmore
Upper Fillmore, in Pacific Heights, is a clean and pretty neighborhood with
boutiques, cafes, small excellent restaurants, a beauty shop, and a grocery
store. Beautifully restored homes and apartments surround the Fillmore shopping
district. Browser Books is a great bookstore and I recommend Fillamento, a museum-like
store full of juicy, satisfying house wares. The Fillmore is a compact commercial
area wrapped in refined beauty, though to some, too fanciful.
There is a nice little city park located at Steiner (at Clay), for one to grab
something to eat and lounge in the sun. It has two tennis courts and a view
of the bay from the top of the hill.
If you are looking to stay in Midtown, try a Major hotel, the Cathedral
Hill Hotel, or a Small Elegant hotel, the Majestic.
The Mission District
The Mission is quintessential San Francisco diversity, and the best place to
covet and compare the finest in Northern California burritos. Burritos are huge,
filling, healthy, and cheap (by S.F. standards). The population of the Mission
District is mostly Latino with the second largest population segment being young
pierced and/or tattooed people. There are quiet residential streets and a few
big loud dirty commercial streets. Hip/funky alternative bars are numerous,
each unique in it's own way. Inexpensive clothing stores run rampant-new and
used, work, retro and hip, vintage and chic. Less desirable sections of the
Mission can be found near the projects, and, like all of San Francisco, the
feel of a neighborhood changes by the block. Excellent, inexpensive produce
markets are scattered about, providing fresh, seasonal fruit.
Give it a look. In the early stages of gentrification, many new businesses
have opened shop on Valencia, Guerrero, and 16th Streets. Especially prevalent
in these parts, in recent years are the ethnic restaurants. Tapas restaurants
(Spanish) are fairly new and popular in the Mission, to complement the Italian,
Mexican, Greek, Indian, Chinese, and various other Far Eastern or Latino flavors.
So, come for the food and stay for the coffee houses, bars, book, record, and
second-hand stores, and various alternative entertainment.
Moscone
Moscone is south of Market St. and west of the Financial District. In this
small area you will find the Moscone Convention Center, the San Francisco Museum
of Modern Art, and the Yerba Buena Museum and Garden. Recently, a host of new
and flashy sky-risers have popped up in the Moscone district. Like the Financial
District, there are many business people here in the day and it's fairly empty
at night.
Try the Pickwick hotel, a Small
Elegant hotel on 5th St. at Mission.
Nob Hill
Nob Hill is above Union Square and the hotels here, built in the early 1900's,
provide a spectacular view of San Francisco. These hotels set the tone for the
old world wealth Nob Hill exudes. Grace Cathedral is also atop the Nob as well,
yet another beautiful building across from Huntington Park, which is the central
square of Nob Hill. Grace Cathedral is a sight to see even if you're on the
under side of the religion line. "The Gates of Paradise" grace the doors to
the Cathedral. They were cast from the originals, produced during the Renaissance
for the entry to the Baptistery at the Duomo in Florence, Italy. Lorenzo Ghiberti
(1378-1455) is the Florentine sculptor of "The Gates of Paradise," which tell
the story of man's fall from grace. This comes from the Old Testament and is
told pictorially panel by panel.
Grace Cathedral is a wonder to behold. To get you to all of this Nob Hill splendor
two of the cable car lines run up the steep hill (walking will wind you).
I sometimes think walking backwards up hills makes it easier but it also looks
silly to passersby.
For an elegant, exclusive hotel, stay at the Huntington
Hotel. They are preparing for the opening of the Nob Hill Spa in the beginning
of 2001. The Nob Hill Lambourne
is a Small Elegant hotel and the Grosvenor
Suites is a reasonably priced, Standard hotel.
Noe Valley
Near the outer parameters of the city, Noe Valley is packed with young professionals,
babies, dogs, shops, and coffee. It is cute and high quality everything abounds
with a small town feel. There are four or five coffee shops in the space of
three blocks. The main commercial street of Noe Valley is 24th Street, between
Dolores and Diamond. Appropriately, several children's clothing shops inhabit
the area, amidst gift shops (you don't need any of it, but you'll want it all!),
restaurants, deli's, markets, shoes, clothes, specialty and variety businesses,
and, of course, Irish bars. Noe Valley is a spender's treat.
Church Street is the second commercial area of Noe Valley. It offers numerous
cafes, restaurants, and a smattering of small businesses. Eric's Chinese food
is on 27th and Church. It is good-good and busy. They try to rush you sometimes,
which can be a bit annoying. I ignore it and eat at my leisure.
I used to live in Noe Valley, and really liked it, until I started getting
a little bored with its perfection. Great lazy Sunday brunch, shop, graze, shop,
graze, shop...People flock to San Francisco for this kind of city living. Noe
Valley is an Urban Utopia.
North Beach
North Beach is predominantly Italian in theory and theme: its restaurants,
coffee houses, and delis, but not its people. There is an Italian population,
it's just not the majority anymore. But all that is Italian in North Beach is
consistently tasty.
Fresh focaccia bread is sold at a bakery named Lugaria at the corner of Filbert
and Stockton. It's essential that you go early--at least before 11:00 AM, to
be safe--before they run out. When I was in fifth & sixth grade, I always
went to Yone's Bead Store on Union at Grant, with my friend Nellie. Afterwards
we would get a gelato a block down by the Washington Square park where we would
sit and talk. The park always has a blend of street life; there are people doing
Tai Chi, homeless people, and children running amok.
"Beach Blanket Babylon" is San Francisco's most colorful show, appropriately
located in North Beach. The show is a San Francisco institution, heading into
their 25th year (or something like that). It is a cabaret type deal, crazy fun
with lots of current events parodied in funny, clever sketches, songs and wild
costumes. A lot of people here see it every couple of years to see if it is
still as silly and bizarre as they remembered. It plays year round in North
Beach, at Club Fugazi.
Weather permitting, coffee at a sidewalk cafe is perfect; outdoor
Euro-cafes are plentiful. Eating is the most common activity in North Beach.
Eat Italian. Speaking of being hungry... I just bought dried split pea soup
and some semi-old sourdough bread.... Yum. So, enjoy the penne, that bruschetta,
garlic, goat cheese, ravioli, an Italian soda, glass of Chianti...
There are some interesting things aside from food in North Beach. Coit Tower
is on nearby Telegraph Hill (at Kearny and Greenwich), which lays claim to great
depression era WPA murals on the inside, and a remarkable vista from atop the
fire-hose inspired structure. From this height, you can spy on Chinatown, Fisherman's
Wharf, Alcatraz, Tiburon, anywhere in the city if the sky is clear!
SFO Airport
The San Francisco International Airport serves almost 50 major airlines and
is located 14 miles south of downtown. To drive those 14 miles can take just
25 minutes or it can take an eon! A word of advice: always over-estimate your
travel time so you won't be sitting in your car when you should be sitting in
your plane! Public transportation isn't great in South San Francisco or Burlingame,
where the airport hotels are located. Eventually, B.A.R.T. is going to have
an airport stop, which will zip travelers downtown in no time. But until then,
you'll have to rely on a car, bus or shuttle to get around this area. All of
the airport hotels have shuttles to conveniently transport you to and from your
hotel.
The airport area is a mix of office complexes and fast-food chains lining the
freeways. The hotels located by the airport are mostly spread out, so they're
a comfortable distance away from the noise of take-offs and landings. Many hotels
are located in corporate parks and some are even located on the bay. Staying
by the airport is a convenient choice and often is a better value than staying
downtown. The Doubletree hotel
is a major airport hotel in Burlingame.
The Sunset District
The San Francisco Zoo is in the Sunset, near Fort Funston and Ocean Beach.
Also known as "The Avenues," this region shows a totally new face of San Francisco.
The outer Sunset has a way of making you aware of San Francisco's multiple personalities.
It is quiet, almost deserted at times, with multi-hued, cookie-cutter houses
in neat rows, red painted driveways, beautifully maintained old cars, first
and only owner models. It's vintage all the way around. Sometimes I feel like
I'm a character in a funky foreign film moseying down these quiet streets. I
envision myself living in this quiet suburbia, rife with children and grandmothers,
then I realize, nah, too humdrum for me.
Union Square
Let's talk about San Francisco the tourist's way: Union Square and Fisherman's
Wharf. Union Square is the "hub" of San Francisco's downtown area. There are
loads of department stores, boutiques, and small chain stores (Nine West, Betsy
Johnson, Urban Outfitters, The Limited, etc.). There actually is a square
at Union Square; one enjoyed by shoppers and pigeons alike. Many-possibly most-of
San Francisco's hotels are located in this general vicinity. You will find transportation
convenient, and most everything pretty expensive. Food is especially pricey.
If you're looking for "nothing fancy," yet good quality dining, you'll have
to be resourceful. It is my humble opinion that unless you're splurging for
a fine, fabulous meal, venture out of Union Square to eat more economically,
and have a wider variety of choices.
Three blocks south of Union Square is the relatively new San Francisco Center.
This is a lavish city mall with circular escalators and shops aplenty (Nordstrom
being the flagship enterprise). The S.F.Center is right across the street from
the cable car turn-around at Market and Powell Streets. The S.F. MOMA (the San
Francisco Museum of Modern Art) is close to the S.F.Center and five or six blocks
from Union Square.
Union Square is also the place to see theater in San Francisco, or at least
the bigger, more mainstream productions, such as "Phantom of the Opera," the
long-running engagement at the Curran Theater. The Geary Theater just reopened
in 1996 after multi-million dollar renovations. The American Conservatory Theater
staged at the Geary has a nine to ten-month season starting in September. The
theater is truly amazing, a show in itself. If you do go, visit Fred's Lounge
(in the lower lobby). Fred, as the story goes, is the theater's resident ghost
and the one blamed for anything and everything that goes wrong at the Theater-from
logistical blunders to articles lost or stolen.
If you want to see a stage production during your stay, you should probably
buy tickets in advance. Check the "Datebook" (a.k.a. "The Pink Section") from
the S.F. Chronicle/Examiner's Sunday paper; it has listings on almost all entertainment
happenings in the Bay Area-from the mainstream offerings to off-Broadway shows.
The Clift hotel has a lush décor
and is steps from the Curran Theater and the Westin
St. Francis is adjacent to Union Square. For a large hotel that offers great
services for business and leisure guests, try the Crowne
Plaza Union Square, the Nikko,
or the Parc 55"> . There are many
small, elegant hotels that have been decorated with a unique flair. Pick from
the Cartwright, the Chancellor,
the Diva, the Hotel
Union Square , the Juliana,
the Kensington Park , the King
George , the Metropolis, the
Prescott, the Regis,
the Savoy the Shannon
Court , the Triton, the Vintage
Court or the York. For a hotel
that will offer a comfortable room for a great price, choose from the Allison,
the Bijou, the Commodore,
the Powell
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